Talk to Broughton History Society  -  Monday 9 February 2015                                                            Introduction

1

Newhaven

    Postcard  -  Castle Series  -  Newhaven ©

2

Leith

Lothian Buses  -  Terminus  -  Ocean Terminal  -  Route 1 ©

3

Stockbridge

    Engraving from 'Modern Athens'  -  hand-coloured  -  St Bernard's Well beside the Water of Leith at Stockbridge ©

4

Canonmills

    Canonmills Clock, and Looking to the NW along Inverleith Row from the junction with Brandon Terrace  -  Christmas Eve, 2009 ©

5

Broughton History

Broughton Tolbooth ©

6

Broughton Maps

Broughton Ward (1995-2007)    -  1904 Ainslie Map © 

7

Broughton
Recollections

    Duncan's Chocolates  -  Albion van and  Andrew Beveridge Douglas ©

8

Broughton
Transport

St Cuthbert's Milk Deliveries  -  January 1985 ©

9

Broughton
Work

The Lady Haig Poppy Factory, Warriston, Edinburgh - Photo taken January 2015 ©

10

Broughton
Churches

    St Mary's RC Cathedral, beside the roundabout at the top of Broughhton Street, Edinburgh ©

11

Broughton
Shops

    Inside Joey D's shop at 54 Broughton Street, 2015 ©

12

Broughton
Bars

'Basement Bar', 10A + 12A Broughton Street   -  Photo taken 2015 ©

  

Broughton History

Broughton Tollbooth

Broughton Tolbooth ©

©  Copyright: Peter Stubbs

 

 

Early History

Here are a few edited extracts from Cassell's 'Old & New Edinburgh'' - a book initially published in fortnightly instalments around 1890, but now usually found bound into 3 (or sometimes 6) volumes.  These volumes include lots of historical information and many engravings of Edinburgh in the 19th century.

Opening Page of 'Old & New Edinburgh', Volume 2

©  For permission to reproduce, please contact peter.stubbs@edinphoto.org.uk

"The earliest notice of Broughton is in the Charter of David 1. to Holyrood, circa A.D. 1143-7, wherein he grants to the monks, ... its lands ... .

"Across the once well-tilled slopes where now York Place stands, a narrow and secluded way between the hedgerows, called the Loan of Broughton, led for ages to the isolated village of that name, of which but a few vestiges still remain."

"Broughton had
                    -  its own tolbooth and court-house
                    -  several substantial stone mansions
                     - many thatched cottages."

Broughton Tolbooth
1582-1829

Broughton Tolbooth stood on what is now the corner of Broughton Street  and Barony Street

(I learnt that from 'Broughton's Story'  An exhibition staged by Broughton History Society at Broughton St Mary's Church in 2006.)

Broughton Tolbooth

©  For permission to reproduce, please contact peter.stubbs@edinphoto.org.uk

Mid-19th century

"Where Claremont Terrace and Bellevue Street were erected in Broughton Park, there existed, between 1840 and 1867, the Zoological Gardens ... where the storming of Lucknow and other such scenes of the Indian Mutiny used to be nightly represented, the combatants being parties of soldiers from the Castle."

"Among the last animals here were two magnificent tigers sent from India."

Broughton Hall 

Home of Archibald Stewart, Lord Provost of Edinburgh, 1745

Broughton Hall was on the south side of Claremont Street, opposite Claremont Crescent

Broughton Hall

©  For permission to reproduce, please contact peter.stubbs@edinphoto.org.uk  (from Wilson's 'Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Times')

The house above was one of many owned  by the Touris Family of Inverleith

1. Bonnington House    2. Stewartfield    3. Redbraes    4. Silvermills House
5. Broughton Hall    6. Powder Hall    7. Canonmills House

Broughton Tolbooth

©  For permission to reproduce, please contact peter.stubbs@edinphoto.org.uk

Broughton Village  -  1852

from a drawing by James W Simson

Broughton Village 1852

©  For permission to reproduce, please contact peter.stubbs@edinphoto.org.uk

Which Buildings are these

 in the engraving below?

Thank you to Jenny Parkerson, Edinburgh, for discovering more about Broughton Burn, and researching the possible location of this view.  Here is what she has found:

1.  Broughton Burn is named on this map, near the top-right corner of the map.
This link is to a map on the National Library of Scotland web site.

The burn can be seen running to the north in the direction of the SE corner of the Royal Zoological Gardens in East Claremont Street, from a point approximately where the Catholic Apostolic Church was built on the corner of Mansfield Place and East London Street.  (East London Street had not been built when this map was drawn.)
The burn ran all the way to Leith, eventually joining the Water of Leith just before Great Junction Street

2.  The exact location of this view in Old Broughton is still not clear, but there are several clues in the engraving:

-  One of the buildings has MAULE’ clearly written on the front.
The 1850 Post Office directory includes a builder, George Maule
, at 58 Broughton Street.

-  The building just behind the 'Maule' house has the names 'Wardlaw' and 'Smith'.
The 1850 Post Office directory includes a blacksmith, Peter Wardlaw, based in Low Broughton.

-  The lettering on the board, possibly above gateposts, near the back of the engraving appears to read 'Dickson'.  The 1850 Post Office directory includes architects, Dickson, Robert and Richard at 12 Broughton Street.
What is the tower in the engraving in the background behind the 'Dickson' board?

Broughton Burn  -  1850

Broughton Burn - 1850

©  For permission to reproduce, please contact peter.stubbs@edinphoto.org.uk

Edinburgh from Warriston Cemetery

Broughton is in the middle distance on the left-hand side of this engraving.

The cemetery seems to be in the very early stages of being developed.   Several churches can be identified in this engraving.

Edinburgh from Warriston Cemetery

©  For permission to reproduce, please contact peter.stubbs@edinphoto.org.uk  (after a drawing by Daniel Wilson)

 

Early History

Other Sources

Several publications refer fairly briefly to the history of Broughton, mentioning the same subjects as are covered in Cassel's 'Old & New Edinburgh':

-  King David's Charter to the Abbey of Holyrood of 1128 and its reference to Bruchtoun.

-  Land ownership: Church, State, Heriots' Hospital, individuals.

-  Witches' trials.

There is a large plaque on the outside wall of the 'Barony' bar at 85 Broughton Street.  It refers to the witches of Broughton, and to a thatched cottage named the 'Witches Houf' that once stood where Broughton Street was built.

Plaque on the wall of the Barony Bar at 85 Broughton Street

'Barony Bar', 85 Broughton Street   -  Photo taken 2015

©  Peter Stubbs   peter.stubbs@edinphoto.org.uk                                                                                                                                                                   Photo taken January 14, 2015

'History of the Barony of Broughton'

The book, 'History of the Barony of Broughton' by John MacKay was published in 1869, then republished in a limited edition of 500 copies by Broughton Books, Edinburgh in 1979.  (Edinburgh Central Library has a copy of it in their Scottish Library.)

I would not describe most of the book as a 'light read', but it does include a helpful introductory chaper, and more detail than I have read elsewhere.  Here are a few brief extracts from the book:

-  "The village of Broughton was likewise the arena where many unfortunate persons were convicted and burnt for practicing what was then termed the crime of Witchcraft."

-   "This ancient barony has undergone many changes.  What was once an independent burgh, with a civil and criminal jurisdiction of its own, and having its court of justice and tolbooth, ..."

-  "The earliest notice of Bruchtoun which we find on record is in the grant by King David the First of Scotland, in the year 1828, to the Abbey of Holyrood ..."

-  "It (Bruchtoun) appears to have belonged to the church until the Reformation, when it was vested in the state."

-  "The territories of the Barony and Burgh of Regality of Broughton were somewhat extensive ... " (These included  'lands callit Pleasance', parts of Leith, Liberton and elsewhere.)

1852

This engraving which appears in both 'Old & New Edinburgh' and 'History of the Barony of Broughton'  is dated 1852.  It can be compared with this 1852 Ordnance Survey large-scale map of Old Broughton.

The link above is to a page on the National Library of Scotland web site in which it is possible to zoom-in and expand the map on the screen.

Broughton Village  -  1852

from a drawing by James W Simson

Broughton Village 1852

©  For permission to reproduce, please contact peter.stubbs@edinphoto.org.uk

The 1852 Ordnance Survey large-scale map includes a lot of detail for Old Broughton:

-  NW corner:  Foundry with Crane, Punding Machine, Weighing Machines, Boiler and Cess Pool

-  NW corner:  Timber Yard with Crane and Well

-  W side:  Summer House, Seat, Cistern, Trough

-  SW corner:  Timber yards, Smithy and Broughton Market (Flesh, Fish, Poultry, &c.)

-  Centre:  Paterson's Court, Lapidary Works, Smithy, Tanks

-  E side:  Timber Yards, Water Plugs, Glassite Chapel (seats for 700)

-  W end of Barony Street:  St Mary's Free Church and School (seats for 800)

Thank you to Jenny Parkerson, Edinburgh, for looking at the map and engraving above and concluding that the view in the engraving would have been painted from roughly the position of the water plugs on the map, looking to the west.

 

Edinburgh Castle

The Edinburgh Evening News "Here's Your Answer" column, in 1989, referred to two occasions when shots were fired in the direction of Broughton from the cannons at Edinburgh Castle:

-  In the days of Regent Morton, Broughton was the scene of many encounters between the Queen's men and the followers of the King.  They took delight in annoying the garrison up at the castle.  They did this by riding around in the fields in range of the castle's guns with handkerchiefs tied to the points of their swords.

In 1571, members of one of these groups, led by the second Lord Methven were "a little too forward in their unreasonable bravery", and were hit by a cannon fired from the castle.

-  In 1715, a party of Highlanders marching through Broughton when they were "cannonaded" from the castle with a 6 pound shot that went through a nearby barn.

 

 

Since 1800

Housing

Edinburgh New Town expanded to the east in the early 19th century, to include much of Broughton.  A regular pattern of streets and houses covered most of the land to the west of Broughton Street, apart from Broughton Market, built on a diagonal plot at the west end of Barony Street in the 1840s for the sale of fish, meat and vegetables.

In recent years, the market has had several uses, including operating as a garage.  It is now is being used as a store for the City of Edinburgh Museums.  I believe that part of the market is also being used by Edinburgh's traffic wardens when they are not walking the streets.

The last of the houses in the old Broughton Village at the west end of Barony Street survived until 1936

  [Broughton's Story:  Broughton History Society Exhibition, Broughton St Mary's Church, Edinburgh: 7-19 August, 2006]

Churches

St Paul's & St George's Church at the corner of York Place and Broughton Street was built 1816-18.

St Paul's & St George's Church


©  Peter Stubbs   peter.stubbs@edinphoto.org.uk                                                                                                                            Photo taken February 6, 2015

Other churches in Broughton were built during the early-19th century, including:

-  Albany Street Chapel, 1816

-  St Mary's, Bellevue Crescent, 1824

-  Catholic Apostolic Church, 1843-44

Other churches in Broughton were built during the early-19th century, including:

End of Page 6

 

Talk to Broughton History Society  -  Monday 9 February 2015                                                            Introduction

1

Newhaven

    Postcard  -  Castle Series  -  Newhaven ©

2

Leith

Lothian Buses  -  Terminus  -  Ocean Terminal  -  Route 1 ©

3

Stockbridge

    Engraving from 'Modern Athens'  -  hand-coloured  -  St Bernard's Well beside the Water of Leith at Stockbridge ©

4

Canonmills

    Canonmills Clock, and Looking to the NW along Inverleith Row from the junction with Brandon Terrace  -  Christmas Eve, 2009 ©

5

Broughton History

Broughton Tolbooth ©

6

Broughton Maps

Broughton Ward (1995-2007)    -  1904 Ainslie Map © 

7

Broughton
Recollections

    Duncan's Chocolates  -  Albion van and  Andrew Beveridge Douglas ©

8

Broughton
Transport

St Cuthbert's Milk Deliveries  -  January 1985 ©

9

Broughton
Work

The Lady Haig Poppy Factory, Warriston, Edinburgh - Photo taken January 2015 ©

10

Broughton
Churches

    St Mary's RC Cathedral, beside the roundabout at the top of Broughhton Street, Edinburgh ©

11

Broughton
Shops

    Inside Joey D's shop at 54 Broughton Street, 2015 ©

12

Broughton
Bars

'Basement Bar', 10A + 12A Broughton Street   -  Photo taken 2015 ©

 

 

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